Almost all drivers remember the saying “Get your sleigh ready in the summer,” since this old Russian proverb is more relevant than ever for car owners when the first snowflakes begin to fly. At the factory, during manufacture, the car is prepared for operation at least -25 °C.
Therefore, if in your region the temperature level drops below this mark, then the car must be prepared for such weather conditions, and this is done as follows:
- First of all, start by checking the battery , namely the electrolyte level in the battery, and if necessary, add distilled water to about.
- Fully charge the battery and check the density of the electrolyte (for all regions except the north, the density of the electrolyte is 1.28-1.29 g/cm²; for the north – 1.29-1.30 g/cm²);
- You should check the concentration of antifreeze - it should be ≈60% (but not higher, as the effectiveness of the antifreeze will decrease);
- Fuel your car only with high-quality fuel, but this statement is true regardless of the season.
And this is just a basic check, since one of the important elements responsible for starting the engine is the battery, the check starts with it and then moves on to the engine itself.
Fuel heater
The main winter problem is starting a cold engine . Of course, much more often the problem concerns carburetor cars, but in severe frost, owners of a car with an injection engine and diesel engines are also affected.
And the reasons for this are known - first of all, a decrease in the capacity of the battery and thickened oil, and also, if it is “gasoline”, then poor evaporation of gasoline. To quickly start the engine, a heater is usually used.
Let's start in order.
Introduction
The cold is already on the doorstep, and right now preparing your car for winter is more important than ever.
At sub-zero temperatures, the machine experiences extreme stress, and if you give up on servicing it, you are at risk of serious and expensive breakdowns. By doing all the preparatory measures properly, you will not only protect yourself from problems, but also extend the life of the car. There are a lot of nuances of preparing a car for the winter cold, but this article will only discuss the essentials.
So, you are required...
Prepare the windshield cleaning system
Good visibility on the road in winter is one of the most important factors when driving a car. In winter, the situation becomes more dangerous, because it gets dark early, the snow glares, and there is a lot of dirt around. In the event of a blizzard or snowfall, the wipers must be effective. In summer models, the rubber of the wipers, which is in contact with the glass, becomes tanned. Therefore, we strongly recommend replacing your windshield wiper blades with winter ones. Windshield washer fluid provides cleanliness, allowing car windows to remain clean and leaves no streaks or stains. High demands are placed on winter washer fluids. They must comply with the following list of factors:
- be safe for people and the environment;
- be safe for automotive plastic and glass;
- not be a fire hazard;
- to protect car parts treated with washer from the action of chemicals that are used against ice by local road services.
When purchasing washer fluid, check the packaging for integrity, expiration date, composition, and date of manufacture. As a rule, the composition looks like this: water, surfactants (surfactants that allow you to mix the “immiscible”), thermal modifiers (against low temperatures), fragrances, dyes. In big cities, illegal liquid is rare; it makes sense to take this into account on long trips, for example.
The washer has run out, but you can’t buy it? We suggest creating it yourself.
Attention! This washer fluid works down to -15 degrees Celsius!
Recipe: mix 1 liter of distilled water, 1 liter of vinegar, 200 grams of dishwashing liquid. This mixture does not freeze thanks to vinegar.
Change tires
Changing summer tires to winter ones is the basics and the first thing a driver should think about when the weather just starts to deteriorate. You need to go to a tire shop when the thermometer value approaches 7-5°C. Temperatures below are detrimental to summer tires, and driving on old wheels is already life-threatening. It is better to do everything as early as possible - purely for reasons of saving personal time, since from the end of October the tire centers will not be crowded.
Choose winter tires according to the conditions in which the car is used. For large cities where roads are regularly cleaned, friction tires are best suited - they have closer contact with the asphalt surface. However, in the snowy off-road conditions for which the Russian province is famous, studded tires are more relevant.
You should definitely inspect your winter tires for cracks, fallen studs and signs of wear. Inflate the cylinders a little more than the summer version - 0.1-0.2 bar. Measure the tread depth - it should be at least 4 mm (many modern winter tires have a special indicator for this). If it is less, such a tire cannot be used. If microcracks or white spots are observed on the working surface, you should consider purchasing a new set.
Don’t neglect winter tires - their composition is much softer than summer tires, and it can provide good grip not only on snowy and icy roads, but also keep the car on the asphalt even in slush, which is very important in the case of a winter with little snow.
Tip: The best way to save money on re-shoeing your car is to buy complete winter wheels. They do not require beading and balancing; all these operations have already been performed during assembly. The master just needs to secure them to the seats - this is noticeably cheaper than numerous operations with conventional tires. The range of assembled wheels has just expanded for winter - choose what you like.
Rubber
An important step in preparing the car for the winter season is the choice of tires. In winter, choose tires marked M+S. When choosing, it is better to choose tires that are worse than those you drive in the summer, naturally, within the acceptable size range for your car. This recommendation is due to the fact that the tread must push through the snow and mud slurry to a hard surface, and narrow tires cope with this task much better than wide tires.
Many tires “stud”; on ice and snow they, of course, have better directional stability, but when the winter is not very snowy, non-studded tires are better suited in the city, since on clean asphalt, when braking on studs, the likelihood of skidding increases significantly, and the braking distance increases.
After replacing tires with winter ones, do not forget to prepare and organize the correct storage conditions for summer tires until the next season.
Winter tire markings
Studded tires
Charge the battery and clean the terminals
It is important to take care of the condition of your battery so that one sunny, frosty morning you do not find that the car cannot move without “lighting up”.
A winter night does not have the most positive effect on the condition of the battery, and it very quickly loses its charge. In general, frost for any battery is a test of strength. To prevent this from happening, measure the electrolyte level in each jar. An important point: the liquid must be absolutely transparent - the sediment signals that the plates are beginning to crumble, and a short circuit may occur very soon. If the level is low, add distilled water. The electrolyte density for winter should be around 1.27-1.28 g/cm3 ±0.01 g/cm3; in the northern regions - 1.29-1.30 g/cm3. If you can’t increase the standard, you will have to buy a new battery.
It is best to connect the battery to a charger so that the distilled water is well mixed with the electrolyte, and also if the output voltage drops below 12.5 V. It should be charged for at least 8-12 hours, remaining under constant supervision, so it is better to do everything at home.
Tip: Also, do not forget to inspect the wires, clean the terminals from oxidation and tighten the contacts to prevent short circuits and extend the life of the battery.
Battery preparation
In cold weather, the battery is subject to higher load. The older the battery, the worse it holds a charge. The battery life is from 3 to 5 years. If it's time for replacement, it's best to change the battery in the fall. You shouldn't wait until one morning the car won't start and you'll have to get a light from your neighbor.
To prepare the battery for operation in winter conditions, you should:
- Check the density of the electrolyte. It should be 1.26-1.28 g/cm3. With such a density, the battery will ensure the engine starts even in 30-degree frost.
- Inspect the generator, high-voltage wires, starter, spark plugs and injectors.
- Clean the battery terminals and screw them securely to the battery.
- Treat all parts of electrical equipment, wires, ignition coil or ignition distributor with universal WD-40 aerosol to protect against moisture penetration.
- Lubricate the terminals with special oil. This will prevent them from oxidizing.
- Check the level of distilled water in the battery.
It is necessary to recharge the battery before cold weather and after winter.
Advice. If the battery was left in the cold at night, a hot bath will come to the rescue. Place the battery in hot water for 10 minutes. Water should cover 2/3 of the device.
Change broken headlights
Properly functioning lighting is one of the key aspects of safe winter travel, as driving in daylight alone is unlikely to be possible. In the morning and evening, only bright headlights will save a car enthusiast, which means that the performance of the lighting cannot be ignored. Over time, the headlights begin to dim, become covered with dirt, scratches and weaken, so that any kilometer risks being their last. It is better to see the problem in advance and change the lamp, which is on its last legs.
Tip: Autumn is the best time to polish old headlights and replace faded xenon lights.
Carry out engine diagnostics
It is important to test your car engine for problems, since even minor problems that you turned a blind eye to in the summer will definitely open up in a new way in the winter at the most unpleasant moment. The key element here is the spark plugs and electrical wiring, which can cause problems with starting the engine and cause it to break down. All worn parts will have to be replaced with new ones.
Change engine oil
We change the oil before winter so that it does not thicken in the cold. Due to the thickened composition, which circulates much worse through the system, the engine parts will rub against each other more strongly and wear out faster during operation. And this is not to mention the fact that an engine with thickened oil will waste more energy from the battery, and it will discharge faster, which is critical in winter. If the last time the oil was changed was 5-10 thousand km ago, feel free to change it to a new one.
Advice: For moderate climates, it is best to take 5W-30 or 5W-40, which are good at any time of the year, because they do not thicken at -30°C and do not deteriorate at +35°C. For northern regions, where the temperature drops below –35°C in winter and stays around +25°C in summer, 0W-40 is suitable. The quality category for gasoline engines should not be lower than SJ, for diesel engines - CD.
You can choose oil for winter in this section.
Gasoline, water and dirt in the tank
I’ll start, perhaps, with dirt and moisture in the tank
FRIENDS is very important! WHY? YES, everything is simple, whatever one may say, moisture forms in the tank (rain, snow, condensation), and dirt, dust, etc. also gets there. Inside the tank we also have a fuel filter with a mesh on it, it holds all these “delights”
BUT in winter it becomes clogged and often freezes, fuel pumping worsens significantly, and sometimes in severe frosts it stops altogether. Many people disassemble half the engine to find the cause, but it is, as usual, banal.
THAT'S WHY. If you have a high mileage, rinse - clean the tank, at least when the temperature is above zero, pour a “moisture remover” inside. Let him take her out, it will never be superfluous.
ABOUT GASOLINE. The most important question is which one to pour in the cold? Many people ride 92 and think that they need to use 95 in winter. Others notice that 92 starts better in winter! BUT WHY? The thing is that now all gasolines have additives in the form of alcohols and ethers, in order to bring them to the required octane number you need to add a certain volume.
BUT in practice this is not always the case. If you refuel with serious brands (of which we have plenty in our country), there is such a thing as saturated vapor pressure (vapor pressure). Without getting into the weeds, summer and winter gasoline differ; in summer the pressure of such vapors is about 80 kPa, but in winter it should be about 90 - 100 kPa. This is what contributes to improved starting.
WHAT TO POUR? YES, what the manufacturer indicated to you is the best option.
Take care of thermal insulation
It is more important to do this for residents of the northern regions, where the temperature in winter regularly drops below –35°C. However, for car enthusiasts from areas with a temperate climate, preparing a “warm blanket” for the engine compartment will also not hurt. No control system can better ensure vehicle safety than the car owner himself. Sometimes such a program can even cause harm if it considers the engine not warmed up.
It is most effective to install a heat shield on the radiator, insulate the hood well, install heat-insulating panels on the sides and bottom of the engine compartment, and cover the engine with a car blanket.
Tip: You can also protect the interior of your car for winter: spread material along the bottom, inside the doors, on the partition between the interior and trunk, and in general at all joints where cold air can penetrate.
Replacing your car's cabin filter before winter
If the air filter is an option that it is advisable to change, then the cabin filter definitely needs to be changed before winter. Just shaking it out and blowing it through is useless. This is paper, its micropores become heavily clogged, the resistance of the oncoming air flow increases, and accordingly, the interior heats up poorly. It greatly affects the air temperature in the cabin. A simple filter change and your interior will always be warm.
Replace coolant and check heating
The coolant will have to be changed for those who, in the warm season, noticed that antifreeze was leaking and had to be diluted with water or added more. The diluted composition will certainly freeze in winter, which can be fatal to the engine. In order not to risk its integrity, the old composition must be drained and new antifreeze must be refilled. Replacing the coolant, one way or another, should occur every 50 thousand kilometers.
At the same time, you can verify the integrity of the car’s heating system: see if there are any leaks from the pipes and seals, and if everything is in order with the hoses and their connections. The radiator could become clogged with salt deposits, and this will greatly interfere with the circulation of coolant. It is better to replace old, clogged pipes altogether.
Tip: Poor heating performance may be caused by a malfunction of the thermostat valve, which also requires replacement.
Auto electrics
Before the cold weather, it is worth checking the correct operation of all engine sensors (flow meter, oxygen systems, and others). The best way is computer diagnostics: it will identify problems that might not light up the “check” on the instrument panel.
It is also worth checking the electronic systems: anti-lock braking system (ABS), traction control system (TRC/TCS) and directional stability system (ESC/ESP/VSC/DSC). All on-board electronics must work properly, and myths about their “uselessness” can and should be ignored.
For all-wheel drive vehicles, 4WD operation also requires checking: connecting and disconnecting, locking clutches and differentials, or their electronic imitation. It is better to discover a problem on a lift in a service center than in a snowdrift far from the city.
Check the brake pads and replace the brake fluid
Brake fluid should be changed regularly every two years, and brake pads should also be inspected annually. Even if a car stops under normal conditions without any complaints, this is not a reason to ignore the inspection. Each wheel must brake with the same force, otherwise on an icy road it is very easy to skid and cause an accident. We urgently replace worn pads. We immediately pay attention to the condition of the brake cylinder boots - whether there are any traces of brake fluid leakage on them. In the worst case, their cuffs are worn out and in cold weather they will leak more and more.
Treat body and glass
Let's not forget about the body either. Due to high humidity in winter, heavy snowfall and cheap salts that utility companies use, even a new car will begin to rust. You can save your car only by thoroughly treating the body with a special anti-corrosion agent. First you need to prepare the lower elements and chipped paintwork, as they are most susceptible to rust. The chips will have to be first painted over, and only then treated against corrosion. We cover the paintwork with polish, and protect the lower part with an anti-gravel compound or protective film.
Additionally, do not forget about other elements of the car that will also have to be coated with a special agent to protect them from harmful influences: glass, headlights, rear-view mirrors and paintwork. This is the perfect tool.
The rubber seals at the door joints will also have to be treated with a silicone compound. During frosts, they can freeze and are easily torn when trying to open the door or trunk. Treatment should be carried out regularly after each wash. Try to start early, before the cold weather.
Advice: After the procedure, let the car sit for a while with the interior open so that the moisture from the seals evaporates.
Change windshield wiper blades and add anti-freeze fluid
Pre-winter preparation is an excellent reason to change your windshield wiper blades. Over several seasons of active use, they could wear out considerably and not only do they not clean anything, but they also scrape the glass obnoxiously with their hairless bristles. New windshield wipers will come in handy for winter when it snows and your field of vision is greatly limited. It is better to specifically buy their special winter variety, which is significantly softer and does not harden in the cold.
It is also necessary to replace the regular water in the windshield wiper barrel with non-freezing liquid to clean the windshield from snow, ice and dirt. Also make sure the nozzles are not clogged and are adjusted correctly. On Russian roads, which are cleaned very irregularly, a glass cleaning system using an “anti-freeze” is as necessary as air. It is not necessary to drain the water if you have not used all of it - just dilute it. At first, it will definitely cope with mild cold weather. If you do nothing at all, then in winter the water will freeze and you will have to defrost it in a warm garage or use special means.
You can buy a set of winter windshield wiper blades here. We take “anti-freeze” in this section.
Preparing the body for winter
Providing additional protection for your car during the cold season is vital, especially for the paintwork of the body, but also the wheels, underbody and interior cavities. Salt is used to remove ice from roads, but can also degrade paint. A quality body coating (wax, sealant or ceramic coating) combined with proper maintenance will protect your paint.
You can apply the protective layer yourself, or in a car service or car wash.
Ceramic coating lasts longer than wax or sealant and requires minimal maintenance. It can be applied to any body surface, including paint, glass, headlights and hard plastic panels. It will protect against dirt and salt. The hydrophobic properties of the ceramic coating help reduce the retention of snow and ice on the body.
Wheels and tires also require protection, as does body paint. There is a special protective wax for wheels. It prevents dust from sticking to the pads, protects against salts, and repels snow and ice. Periodic renewal of the wax layer is required, but the result is worth the effort.
Lubricate the locks
Another nuisance on a sunny, frosty morning is a frozen castle. The day before, water could have accumulated inside, and at night it froze thoroughly. Result: late for work due to the need to urgently defrost the lock with a lighter.
You can avoid this in the fall if you pour silicone grease inside the keyhole and turn the key in the lock a couple of times so that the liquid spreads properly throughout all the cavities. You can purchase this product here.
Tip: It is recommended to carry out this operation after every winter car wash.
Additional accessories
Car owners will benefit from additional accessories in winter that will save them in extreme situations.
First of all, you need to have a supply of all the necessary fluids, a spare tire, a shovel, scrapers and brushes for cleaning the windows from ice and snow, a towing rope, water-repellent aerosol, a flashlight, an additional set of wires in case of external starting of the engine (for “lighting up”), a set of spare fuses, as well as spare headlight bulbs.
Water repellent spray for locks
In winter, drivers may encounter a problem such as freezing of doors when there is a sharp change in temperature from thaw to freezing. The use of a water-repellent spray prevents moisture from entering the lock mechanism. It is also recommended to treat keyholes with this aerosol after each car wash.
Sizebunny
The size of the de-icer, or glass defroster, allows you to remove ice from windshields as much as possible, prevents the re-formation of ice and does not require additional cleaning afterward.
Automatic engine warm-up
In winter, it is difficult to start a car without an engine preheater. The device is designed to heat up the coolant. Using automatic heating increases the comfort of operating the machine in cold weather and saves time.
According to the principle of operation, pre-starting motors are divided into two types:
- electrical;
- autonomous.
Electric heaters need to be connected to a 220 volt power supply. The principle of their operation is the same as that of a conventional boiler that heats the coolant.
Autonomous - they use the fuel of the car itself as energy. They do not depend on external sources, so they are more convenient, but they are also more expensive.
Thermal bag for battery
A thermal bag, or thermal case for a battery, is a soft, sealed thermos that does not allow cold to pass through. The case maintains temperatures from –15 to +30 °C.
The battery heats up while the engine is running. The thermal case creates a thermal bath around it, forming a vacuum. This allows the battery to be in a comfortable atmosphere and extends its service life.
Battery plugs
It would also be a good idea for car owners to have a device for measuring battery charge. This is the load fork.
First of all, those drivers whose car already has a good mileage should check the state of charge of the battery.
Take important things with you
A winter road is no joke, and it is impossible to predict what awaits around the bend and where you will have to make an emergency stop. In order to eliminate as many surprises as possible, make sure in advance that you always have the following in your trunk:
- Set of external starting wires. It will help to “light up” from another car in case of a battery failure.
- A tow rope if you have to pull your car out of impassable snowdrifts.
- Jack for emergency wheel replacement.
- Snow brush and rubber ice scraper. The first should be softer and smaller so as not to take up extra space in the trunk, and the second should have an elastic edge so as not to scratch the glass.
- A folding shovel, which will come in handy if the car stalls in deep snow.
- Anti-ice for quick glass cleaning. You can wipe foggy windows with paper towels or napkins.
- Antigel additive for diesel cars. It must be added to the gas tank before refueling to prevent the fuel from thickening in the cold.
- Thick winter mats under passengers' feet to absorb thawed snow from boots.
- And also throw work gloves, a hatchet, a hammer and a flashlight in the trunk - you never know what will happen and when.
What should be in the car in winter?
- A set of rubber mats will not only protect the carpet from moisture, dirt and salt, but also if the car gets stuck, rubber mats can be placed in front of the drive wheels to help move the car.
- Place a window brush and scraper and a small shovel in the trunk. A shovel will help if you get stuck or make it easier to clear your car if it's covered in snow.
- If the car is rear-wheel drive, then it is better to carry a small bag of sand with you to add sand under the rear wheels if they slip and the car cannot move or pass a critical area.
- It would be a good idea to purchase a reflective vest. This will protect you if the car breaks down and you need to be on the track in the dark.
- There should be a hazard warning triangle in the trunk in case of an accident.
- There should be wires for lighting in the car.
- A high-quality tow rope will come in handy if you need to pull out your or someone else's car.
- Keep a can of WD-40 in your car. They can defrost the lock if necessary.
- You should have warm gloves in the car.
- Take your cell phone charger with you, powered by a cigarette lighter. This will ensure that you have telephone service and can call for help if you break down along the way.
- Bright sunlight on a snow-covered road can be blinding, so it's best to have sunglasses in your car. Glasses with polarized lenses are best.
